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MACEDONIA

You have to drive a long way to find a little country as amenable as Macedonia — a long, long way.

The country (2 million population, about the size of Maryland) is located at the southeastern end of what used to be Yugoslavia. It’s bounded on the east by Bulgaria, on the west by Albania and on the south by Greece. Because of the uncertain conditions on its northern borders (Serbia, Bosnia), United Nations peacekeeping forces are still stationed around the country.

All of which means you have to really want to get to Macedonia to get there. If peace was widespread in the former Yugoslavia, the drive down from central Europe wouldn’t be too bad — it’s maybe 600 miles to Vienna. Or you can go around the long way, through Hungary, Romania and Bulgaria.

We think the absolute best way to do it is to drive down the Adriatic coast of Italy, hit a beach or two, then take the ferry from Brindisi to Igoumenitsa (tons of ferries, no worries). You could even take a ferry to Corfu for a few days, then to the Greek mainland. Once in Igoumenitsa, head for Thessaloniki, one of the prettiest drives in northern Greece. Then go north to Skopje.

So is all this hassle worth it? You betcha — Macedonia is a jewel, a bite-size nation almost created with tourism in mind. Despite some growing pains and a few worrisome neighbors, Macedonia is ready to welcome you in European style and comfort.

Tourists will most likely be drawn at present to three areas: Skopje, the mountain area in the Mavrovo National Park on the Albania border southwest of Skopje and, farther to the southwest, the lovely area around Lake Ohrid. Bottom line: Macedonia is just sitting there waiting to be invaded by tourists looking for an out-of-the-way but very comfy vacation spot.

What you’ll see:

Skopje

Skopje is a dandy little place, population about 600,000. It has the unique ability to be two things at once: emerging post-Communist European republic, and a city plainly in touch with the Islamic Near East. The city is split by a river — the Vardar — which basically divides Skopje into old and new. Much of the new city is really new, courtesy of a very destructive earthquake in 1963.

Much of the old Turkish-influence city was relatively undamaged; the destroyed areas were rebuilt in Socialist Modern, and the blend of the two is as representative a picture of modern Balkan history as you need. The two sections are joined by the 13th Century Turkish Bridge, being renovated. The city tourist office (maps, accommodations) sits near the bridge.

On the north side of the bridge in the old town is the wonderful little Turkish-style bazaar area called the Carsija. If you’ve visited souks in North Africa or the Near East, it’s pretty small potatoes, but for a first visit to a bazaar, it works well. There are a few restaurants and bars here and there, and towering above all is the minaret of the Mustafa Pasha mosque (1492), heavily damaged in the earthquake (but open for inspection).

On the south side of the river you find one of the city’s premier hotels, the Grand. Next to the Grand is a large, American-style shopping center with designer clothes, CD shops, fast food outlets and movie theaters.

As befits its location as a pivotal spot in the Europe-to-Near East trade routes, the city is a mix of Christian churches (mostly Eastern Orthodox) and mosques. Several of the churches date back to the 11th and 12th Century, and most of the mosques were built in the 15th or 16th Century. On a high hill not far from the bazaar area is Kale, the remains of a large Turkish fort begun in the 10th Century.

The overall impression of Skopje is quite favorable — a very livable, interesting city with plenty to look at and explore. Traffic — at least at this point — is under control; air pollution is minimal; the locals are friendly. One of the finest ethnic museums in the Balkans is located on the slope below the Mustafa Pasha mosque: the Museum of Macedonia, with a great collection of native costumes.

Mavrovo

There is some gorgeous mountain country in Macedonia, including the area of this national park between the cities of Tetovo and Ohrid. The Radika River cuts through the park and the Bistra Mountains, generally 4,200 feet to 6,600 feet altitude. It is a ski resort and hunting area. Other national parks include Pelister, in the southwest of the country near Bitola, featuring Mount Baba (8,500 feet), and Galicica National Park near Ohrid.

Ohrid

This is the area of Macedonia most prepared to handle tourists used to Western European quality accommodations and service. The lake lies on the Albania-Macedonia border and is the deepest lake in Europe (965 feet). The city of Ohrid is like Skopje, a mix of East and West, with a bazaar. The area around town has some of the most interesting Orthodox churches in the Balkans.

Of special interest is the Monastery of St. Naum, dating from the 10th Century. Also in the area are a clutch of 14th and 15th Century churches.

DETAILS ON MACEDONIA

Accommodations: In Skopje, top hotels include the Grand and the Hotel Continental. Both have casinos. The Grand is on the river in the new town; the Continental is a bit away from the city center on the main highway leading into the city from the east.

The Grand is the more expensive of the two, with doubles going for about $125 a night; the Continental, being remodeled, is $45 a night less.

In Ohrid, the hotel scene is the most active about four miles out of town on the lakeshore. One worth a try is the Metropol/Bellevue, actually two hotels run as one unit (there is a casino). The rooms at the Bellevue are the best. The food ain’t bad, either. Rooms run in the $80-$90 a night range. (You might see the name spelled “Belvi.” Macedonians have trouble translating city names from Cyrillic to Western script.)

Customs: U.S. citizens are granted a 30-day visa at the border, cost-free. From Greece, there are two border crossings. One is north of Thessaloniki, the other at the Macedonia city of Bitola. Very little hassle, either way. Going from Greece, no signs will say Macedonia (the Greeks insist that it be called “the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia” since they have a Macedonia of their own); look instead for signs that say Yugoslavia.

Information: Contact the Macedonia Mission to the United Nations, 866 UN Plaza, Suite 4050, N.Y., N.Y. 10017.