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NEW YORK

Spring fashion collections always provide designers with an excuse to indulge in lightness and frivolity, and this year was no exception.

Though harsh economic realities resulted in a practical cargo-themed look dubbed “utilitarian chic,” New York runways were still full of purples, pinks and fluttering shapes synonymous with spring. Fall’s bold shapes were softened. Blacks and dark grays were transformed into a palette of whites, khakis, heathers and greens of every hue. And winter’s heavy wools were shed in favor of shiny shantung, silk and taffeta, even chantilly lace and ruffles.

Rough edges gave way to scalloped hemlines. Sharp silhouettes were traded for asymmetrical hemlines and necklines. Sweaters were blended with the lightest of cashmeres, cotton or silk. Even coats became translucent sheaths, best exemplified by Halston’s and Bill Blass’ organza trench coats.

A ’60s undercurrent further helped add a flight of fancy to the New York spring shows. Pastel cropped motorcycle jackets graced runways from Ralph Lauren to Cynthia Rowley, who also showed hot pink chiffon mini-dresses and mod-looking sideways zippers. But a back-to-the future aesthetic is not what spring ’99 is about. It’s about an easy fit conveyed in luxurious separates that can fit into any woman’s wardrobe.