Chicago is frequently described as a city of neighborhoods. How true. But it is also a city of ethnic neighborhoods.
Images of ethnic Chicago: Asians chatting on street corners along Devon Avenue on a warm night in late spring; ordering a second helping of Lithuanian home cooking in Chicago Lawn; Korean storefronts along Lawrence Avenue in Albany Park; Irish churches in Bridgeport; Polish delis, grocers, restaurants and bakeries along Milwaukee Avenue in ”Polish Village”; dancing to reggae music along Clark Street; pulsating Latin music emanating from a Logan Square record store; colorful murals depicting the struggle of Mexican liberation on Pilsen walls; stoop-sitting in Little Tuscany; exploring the intricacies of the cuisine in Chinatown; attending a church service in Ukrainian Village;
listening to a good-time German oompah band in Lincoln Square; sipping a cup of cappuccino in a trattoria on Taylor Street; or watching the gyrations of a belly dancer in Greektown.
All this and more is possible.
Here, then, is a guide to 14 of the city`s ethnic neighborhoods.
CHICAGO LAWN
Chicago Lawn is a quiet residential community on the far southwest side that includes the Marquette Park neighborhood. The park is located between California and Central Park Avenues, from Marquette Road to 71st Street and features a fieldhouse, a lagoon and a golf course and offers ample
recreational activities. At Marquette Road and California Avenue is a monument in honor of Stephen Darius and Stanley Girenas, two Lithuanians who died in 1933 when their plane crashed over Germany while they were trying to set a world flying record from the U.S. to Lithuania. Chicago Lawn has several worthwhile Lithuanian restaurants and bakeries including Neringa (2632 W. 71st St.; 312-476-9026), Ramune`s (2547 W. 69th St.; 312-476-7975), and Baltic Bakery (2616 W. 69th St.; 312-737-6784). Daina Restaurant (2656 W. 71st St.;
312-434-9666) is known for its kugelis (baked potato pudding). At Nida Delicatessen and Restaurant (2617 W. 71st St.; 312-476-7675), you can either eat in or take out. Tulpe (Lithuanian for tulip) Restaurant (2447 W. 69th St.; 312-925-1123) is one of the best places in the neighborhood to sample traditional Lithuanian fare-such as sausages, potato pudding and dumplings with various fillings-at its heartiest and most satisfying. The pride of Lithuanian Chicago is the Balzekas Museum of Lithuanian Culture (6500 S. Pulaski Rd.; 312-582-6500). Founded by auto dealer Stanley Balzekas as a permanent memorial to his heritage, the museum displays Lithuanian artifacts and folk arts and sponsors exhibitions of interest to the Lithuanian community. Just west of Chicago Lawn is the Baby Doll Polka Club (6102 S. Central Ave.; 312-582-9706). It`s not Lithuanian-it`s Polish-but it`s still a great place to show off your polka techniques or, for novices, to learn a few steps.
ALBANY PARK
Once the center of the Jewish community on the northwest side, Albany Park is now a multiethnic, multiracial and primarily blue-collar area. Jews started moving into the neighborhood, historians tell us, after the completion of the Ravenswood ”El” at Kimball and Lawrence Avenues. By 1930 the Jewish population had grown considerably; many had come from the crowded West Side. A post-World War II migration brought with it an increase of residents from the inner city and a polyglot mixture of Hispanics, Greeks, Middle Eastern, Filipinos, Asian Indians, Appalachian whites and Koreans. The last ethnic group is perhaps the most visible presence, especially along Lawrence Avenue from Kedzie to Kimball Avenues. There are plenty of Korean groceries, resale shops, wholesale outlets, import shops, travel agencies, social service organizations, community groups and, of course, restaurants. In recent years there has been a concerted effort on the part of local community leaders to beautify the Lawrence Avenue business strip from an area of one seedy thrift shop after another into a center for neighborhood shopping. The Irish American Heritage Center (4626 N. Knox Ave.; 312-282-7035) is in the Albany Park neighborhood. The center, which opened in the mid-`80s in what was formerly Mayfair Junior College, serves the greater Irish community throughout the metropolitan area. It sponsors concerts and lectures, houses several schools of Irish dancing and offers Gaelic-language instruction and music lessons.
WEST RIDGE
When one thinks of Devon Avenue, one does not think so much of people or places but rather of specific smells and aromas, especially the sweet scent of Indian cooking or the baked dough of a kosher bakery. From bagels and gefilte fish to curry and tandoori chicken-that in a phrase sums up the essence of Devon Avenue. Devon Avenue is the main shopping and commercial strip of West Ridge or, as it is commonly known, West Rogers Park. On a recent early evening in the spring, couples and their children were out for a leisurely walk up and down the avenue, old Indian men were conversing on street corners and sari-dressed Indian women were sitting on benches, silently watching the parade of humanity. The stretch of Devon Avenue from Western to California Avenues possibly offers the largest concentration of Indian restaurants in the city. Some of the best include Natraj (2240 W. Devon Ave.; 312-274-1300) which specializes in vegetarian fare; Hyderabad House (2500 W. Devon Ave.;
312-764-5880) offers both Indian and Pakistani dishes; Moti Mahal (2525 W. Devon Ave.; 312-262-2080) is much larger than the tiny, cramped original storefront on West Belmont Avenue-but the food is just as good; Gandhi Indian Restaurant (2601 W. Devon Ave.; 312-761-8714) is a bit more upscale. There`s also an Indian fast food restaurant, Annadata Fast Food (2546 W. Devon Ave.;
312-274-4175) when you`re in a hurry for Indian snacks and sweets or want a special carryout of masala dosa, its specialty. There are also many Indian grocers, supermarkets, appliance outlets, clothing stores and travel agencies. Jai Hind Food & Video (2658 W. Devon Ave.; 312-973-3400) is but one example of the diversity found within Indian stores. Not only does it function as a Indian and Pakistani grocer but it also stocks kitchenware, records and videos. Once you reach Ebner`s Meat Market (2649 W. Devon Ave.; 312-764-1446) the character and look of the street slowly changes. Women wearing saris are replaced by men in dark frocks and long beards. Other kosher markets worth mentioning are Miller`s Market (2725 W. Devon Ave.; no phone number) for genuine kosher meat and poultry; Kosher Karry (2828 W. Devon Ave.;
312-973-4355), a kosher carryout kitchen, and New York Kosher (2900 W. Devon Ave.; 312-338-3354), a large and bustling kosher grocer. You can find kosher sweets at Gitel`s Kosher Pastry Shoppe (2745 W. Devon Ave.; 312-262-3701). Fine bookshops along Devon Avenue include the Russian-American Bookstore (2746 W. Devon Ave.; 312-761-3233), a handsome shop that stocks Russian books, gifts and videos. Try Rosenblum`s Hebrew Book Store (2906 W. Devon Ave.;
312-262-1700) for Judaic literature, kosher cookbooks, Jewish gifts and religious items such as menorahs. Nearby is the Chicago Hebrew Bookstore (2942 W. Devon Ave.; 312-973-6636). The Bagel Restaurant (3000 W. Devon Ave.;
312-764-3377) is a busy and popular Jewish restaurant well known for its homestyle cooking.
ARMOUR SQUARE
Chinatown holds a special place in the hearts of many Chicagoans. Small and compact, there`s something eternally appealing about its crowded streets and charming shops. Maybe it`s the aroma of noodles and spices wafting from neighborhood restaurants or maybe it has something to do with the ancient Chinese culture. It`s a major tourist attraction at once exotic but also surprisingly familiar, where the street signs are in both English and Chinese and the atmosphere is like no other in the city. Chinatown is located in the Armour Square community between 18th Street on the north, Pershing Road on the south, Clark Street on the east and the Chicago River on the west. It contains the largest concentration of Chinese in the city-indeed the largest Chinese community in the Midwest. There are many worthwhile restaurants and unusual shops. Wah Leung Hong, for example (2402 S. Wentworth Ave.; 312-225-8303) is an herbal drug store. Woks `n` Things (2234 S. Wentworth Ave.; 312-842-0701)
sells Chinese cutlery and cookware, while Dong Kee Noodle Co. (2252 S. Wentworth Ave.; 312-225-6340) is a Chinese general store that specializes in Chinese candies and, of course, noodles. Happy Garden Bakery (2358 S. Wentworth Ave.; 312-225-2730) offers unusual Chinese desserts stuffed with such traditional fillings as bean paste and lotus root. Down the street is a combination restaurant and bakery, Chiu Quon (2229 S. Wentworth Ave.;
312-225-6608). Tai Wai (2226 S. Wentworth Ave.; 312-326-4120) is a busy grocery. The intoxicating aroma of freshly brewed teas emanates from the Ten Ren Tea & Ginseng Co. (2247 S. Wentworth Ave.; 312-842-1171). You`ll find plenty of touristy eateries in Chinatown and, with a little digging, some authentic Chinese cooking, too. For the latter try the elegant Emperor`s Choice (2238 S. Wentworth Ave.; 312-225-8800)or the Sixty-Five Restaurant
(2409 S. Wentworth Ave.; 312-842-6500), a popular storefront selection. Save the Mandar Inn Restaurant (2249 S. Wentworth Ave.; 312-842-4014) for that special night out. To round out the list, Three Happiness No. 2 (2130 S. Wentworth Ave.; 312-791-1228) is one of the best places to sample dim sum, the Chinese meal of dumplings or small snacks.
JEFFERSON PARK
Jefferson Park is a quiet residential community on the Northwest Side where a large segment of the city`s Polish population has chosen to settle. ”Mowimy Po Polsku” signs hang in many shop windows. Along Lawrence Avenue are Polish dentists, Polish travel agencies, Polish shoemakers and a Polish funeral home. The focal point of the Polish community in Jefferson Park, however, is the Copernicus Cultural Center (5216 W. Lawrence Ave.; 312-777-8898), housed in what formerly was the Gateway Theater. A huge bust of Nicholas Copernicus, the astronomer, greets visitors as they enter the spacious lobby. The Copernicus Foundation, a cultural organization founded in 1972, purchased the Gateway in 1979 and transformed the old theater into a handsome showplace of Polish culture. The center contains offices, meeting rooms and a small ballroom and hosts concerts, dances and special events in addition to English and Polish language classes, lectures, art exhibits and Polish films. Arguably the best Polish restaurant in the neighborhood is the Pierogi Inn (5318 W. Lawrence Ave.; 312-725-2818). For good and tasty wholesome Polish-style cooking, it`s hard to beat. Also worth a visit is Teresa II Polish Restaurant and Lounge
(4751 N. Milwaukee Ave.; 312-283-0184), a small storefront diner just south of the Jefferson Park elevated station. Two highly recommended sausage shops are near the intersection of Lawrence and Austin Avenues. Victor`s European Sausage (5952 W. Lawrence Ave.; no phone) is a clean, attractive deli and grocery that specializes in Polish pierogis (dumplings stuffed with mouth-watering fillings). Kalinowski Sausage Shop (5930 W. Lawrence Ave.;
312-282-6988) is smaller, but on a recent Saturday morning, it was just as busy as Polish shoppers crowded into its narrow space, filling up on its homemade sausages, breads and pierogis. Gaelic Imports (4736 N. Austin Ave.;
312-545-6515), run by Cathy and Dick Mulholland, sells Scottish meat pies, Irish soda bread and assorted sweets, clothing, newspapers, records, jewelry and grocery items.
LOGAN SQUARE
The adjacent communities of Avondale and Logan Square are vastly different from each other. Avondale is a middle-class neighborhood that tends to keep to itself. Logan Square is a diverse community of wide boulevards and tree-lined streets. Many of the graystones that line Kedzie Avenue and Logan Boulevard were built by German and Scandinavian immigrants who settled in the neighborhood in the 1890s. Two ethnic groups dominate-Poles in Avondale and Hispanics in Logan Square. Banners proclaim the area along Milwaukee Avenue from Belmont to Diversey Avenues ”Polish Village.” There are Polish restaurants, record stores, bookshops, gift shops and travel agencies on this stretch of Milwaukee Avenue. Walking south down Milwaukee you`ll find Teresa`s Deli (3184 N. Milwaukee Ave.; 312-282-5515), a cheery neighborhood spot for homemade sausages and meats. A block or so down is Staropolska Restaurant and Deli (3028-30 N.; 312-342-0779). Czerwone Jabtuszko, The Red Apple (3121-23 N.; 312-588-5781) offers a truly bountiful selection of tasty Polish food. Live music also on weekends. Visit the Pasieka Bakery (3056 N.; 312-278-5190) for home-quality baking. Syrena (3004 N.; 312-489-4435) is a Polish department store. The Orbit Restaurant (2954 N.; 312-276-1355) offers good wholesome Polish meals. If you wish to leave Milwaukee Avenue for a moment, the Podlasie Club (2918 N. Central Park Ave.; 312-276-0841) bar and entertainment just down from the Orbit Restaurant. Polonia Bookstore and Publishing Co. (2886 N.;
312-489-2554) is a bookstore that specializes in Polish books, newspapers, magazines and records. Try Avondale Polish Records (2888 N.; 312-252-2266) for records and tapes. As you approach Diversey Avenue, the neighborhood changes. Restaurants advertise tacos instead of pierogis, tamale vendors cycling up and down the street selling their wares and the danceable sounds of Latin music can be distinctly heard through the open door of a record store. Tania`s Restaurant and Lounge (2659 N.; 312-235-7120) is an upscale Cuban nightclub renowned for its dining and dancing. Abril Mexican Restaurant (2607 N.;
312-227-7252), across from the Logan Square elevated station is a good choice for authentic Mexican food. Further down, Rinconcito Inn (2529 N.;
312-772-6266) offers Mexican and South American cuisine and live entertainment.
