There are places in this country where ”barbecue” is more than a way of cooking a piece of meat over coals. It is Tradition with a capital ”T.” Such is the case in Santa Maria on California`s central coast.
The history of Santa Maria barbecue dates to the early 1800s when the mainstay of the early Californians` economy was cattle, and America`s first cowboys, the colorful vaqueros, held large beef barbecues at the ranchero after every round-up. Over the years, the tradition has been kept alive in the Santa Maria Valley by groups that have made the barbecue a special event.
Traditionalists will tell you it cannot be done for groups smaller than 100, but that`s not true. You can do it in your back yard.
The only secret of the Santa Maria barbecue is its simplicity-no special sauces or magic ingredients. It consists of thick cuts of beef, seasoned with nothing but salt, pepper and garlic salt cooked over Santa Maria Valley red oak coals and served with toasted sweet french bread to sop up the natural juices from the serving pan.
The meat called for in an authentic Santa Maria Barbecue is a 3-inch-thick cut of boneless top sirloin weighing 3 to 4 pounds. (You sometimes find these in meat cases labeled ”chateaubriand.”) If that is more meat than you need, there is another cut of sirloin that works well, the ”tri-tip.”
Since the days of the vaqueros, the tri-tip has become the most popular cut for family barbecues in the region. It is a solid, triangular-shaped muscle from the sirloin section. It weighs about 1/2 to 2 pounds and is a better size for a small family. Whichever cut you use, here`s how to prepare it:
SANTA MARIA-STYLE BARBECUE SIRLOIN
Four to six servings
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: About 40 minutes
Red oak logs or oak chips and charcoal
1 tablespoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon garlic salt
1 three-inch-thick top sirloin steak or tri-tip steak or steaks (1 1/2 to 2 pounds)
1. Prepare a good hot fire in the barbecue grill. Santa Maria style is best done on a grill with an adjustable grate so the distance between the meat and the heat can be varied.
(If all you have available is a covered cooker, you will need to make some minor adjustments in technique, such as spreading out the coals to lower the temperature or perhaps removing the meat for a few minutes after searing to allow the coals to cool slightly. Do not use the cover. Let the wood or charcoal burn down to red-hot coals. If you are using oak chips and charcoal, soak the oak chips in water and add them to the hot charcoal just before the meat goes on.)
2. Combine the salt, pepper and garlic salt, and rub the mixture over the surface of the meat. Put the meat on the grill and adjust the grate so the meat is only 2 or 3 inches from the coals. To seal in the juices, sear one side 5 to 8 minutes, turn and sear the other side. Then lower the grate (or raise the grill) so that the meat is 6 to 8 inches from the hot coals. Continue cooking 20 to 30 minutes, turning every 7 or 8 minutes until the beef is cooked to the desired degree of doneness, 130 degrees for rare. Slice and serve with crispy toasted french bread to sop up the meat juices.
The traditional combination of side dishes, which the residents of Santa Maria say is important to the overall flavor of the meal, consists of pinquito beans, macaroni and cheese, tossed green salad, toasted sweet french bread, salsa, coffee and a simple dessert. The pinquito bean, a small pink bean that retains its firm texture even after lengthy slow cooking, is unique to the Santa Maria Valley, as is the red oak.
If you want to be authentic, both can be ordered by mail direct from the Reiner Co., P.O. Box 632, Santa Maria, Calif. 93456; phone (805) 928-3494. The Reiner Co. sells Santa Maria Valley red oak barbecue chips and pinquito beans to provide ”enough Santa Maria Style BBQ essentials for 15 people” in a gift pack for $9.95 plus $2 postage and handling.
Or you can substitute pinto beans and any old oak chips with charcoal.
Here are some other accompaniments:
SANTA MARIA-STYLE BARBECUE SALSA
About 3 1/2 cups
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Standing time: 1 hour
3 medium fresh tomatoes, chopped
1/2 cup finely chopped celery
1/2 cup finely chopped green onions
1/2 cup finely chopped green chiles
2 tablespoons fresh cilantro (coriander), chopped
1 teaspoon vinegar
Dash Worcestershire sauce
Pinch garlic salt
Pinch dried oregano, crushed
Few drops hot pepper sauce
1. Combine all ingredients in a bowl, cover and let stand 1 hour to blend flavors.
SANTA MARIA-STYLE BARBECUE BEANS
Four to six servings
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Soaking time: 8 hours or overnight
Cooking time: 2 hours
1 pound small pink beans (pinquito) or pinto beans
1 strip bacon, diced
1/2 cup diced ham
1 small clove garlic, minced
3/4 cup tomato puree
1/4 cup red chili sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1. Pick over the beans to remove dirt and small stones; cover with water and let soak overnight in a large container. Drain, cover with fresh water and simmer 2 hours or until tender.
2. Saute bacon and ham until lightly browned, add garlic, saute a minute or two longer, then add tomato puree, chili sauce, sugar, salt and mustard. Drain most of the liquid off beans and stir in sauce. Keep hot over low heat until ready to serve.
SANTA MARIA-STYLE BARBECUE MACARONI AND CHEESE
Six to eight servings
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 50 minutes
1 1/2 cups elbow macaroni
2 tablespoons butter or margarine
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon salt
Dash pepper
2 cups hot milk
1 1/2 cups shredded sharp Cheddar cheese
1. Cook macaroni according to directions on package. Make a roux of the butter, flour and salt.
2. Heat milk in small saucepan and add shredded cheese to melt. (Do not boil.) Put roux into double boiler, add pepper and hot milk mixture and cook, stirring constantly until thickened and bubbly.
3. Combine macaroni and cheese sauce. Turn into 1 1/2 quart casserole. Bake at 350 degrees 35 to 40 minutes.