Twinkies may be snack-cake perfection, but people try to improve on ’em. Hostess’ official Twinkie Web site lists 32 variations including Twinkie Tacos. For the snack cake’s 75th anniversary, At Play tried three creations:
BEST BET
THE PLACE: KITSCH’N RIVER NORTH, 600 W. Chicago Ave., 312-644-1500
THE COMMENTS: The tweak: Classic ladyfinger base is replaced with thin layer of smashed Twinkies. That’s topped with inch-thick layer of rum-infused marscapone, liberally sprinkled with cocoa powder and chocolate shavings, drizzled with Kahlua, then finished with smattering of strawberries. The verdict: Sophisticated dessert made with Twinkies? Kitsch’n pulls it off. Twinkies are moist and sweet but don’t overpower the delicious, rummy marscapone. Decadent and rich, yet not cloying. Serves two or three, though you may fight over the last bite.
THE STATS: Twinkie Tiramisu $5
THE PLACE: SWANK FRANK, 1587 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-862-4000
THE COMMENTS: The tweak: Frozen Twinkie impaled on a wooden stick is bathed in batter then submerged in bubbling oil for a quick cook before being sprinkled with confectioners’ sugar and drizzled with chocolate syrup. The verdict: What happens when you fry a Twinkie? The cake puffs up with grease and the filling melts away. Not that this is necessarily a bad thing. Sort of a cross between fried dough and a Twinkie, it’s toothachingly sweet and very, very filling. Serves two seriously sweet-toothed diners.
THE STATS: Fried Twinkie $1.95
THE PLACE: DOLCE, 1600 W. 16th St., Oak Brook, 630-571-9500
THE COMMENTS: The tweak: Deep-fried Twinkie atop pile of fresh strawberries, raspberries, blueberries and blackberries, then showered with confectioners’ sugar. The verdict: Dolce gets around the fried Twinkie’s aggressive sweetness with tart tang of fresh berries, a delicious combination. But breading is a little stiff, more of a prison for the Twinkie than part of the dessert. That said, the Twinkie does come out of the fryer fluffy, not too greasy and with filling intact. Overall, a nice, novel dessert. Serves two or three diners.
THE STATS: Twinkie Torta $6
