A purple passion has taken hold this fall on lips and eyes and cheeks. Ranging from light lilac and mauve to deeper plum and grape, the hue can be surprisingly flattering to most skin tones.
That isn’t to say you should pour on the purple without restraint. An understated approach can help create a rich, dramatic look with sheer, shimmery versions on lips, lightly smudged tones around the eyes and a fresh hint of lilac or mauve on the cheeks.
Purple also is a perfect partner to the autumnal colors also in favor this season, such as gold and bronze.
Here’s how two top makeup artists, New York-based Trish McEvoy, who has her own makeup line, and Darcy McGrath, who conducts private makeup lessons in Chicago between shoots for Italian Vogue and Glamour, advise incorporating fall makeup trends — including the purple reign — into your regime.
4 STEPS FOR CREATING THE LOOK
1. CLEAN, FRESH-LOOKING SKIN
Your skin’s not naturally flawless? Join the club. Start by dotting on concealer wherever heavy coverage is needed (under the eyes, around the nose) and then patting it gently to blend. McEvoy then applies her own Trish McEvoy Cream Powder Makeup all over the face, smoothing it on with a finger. (Lancome and Cover Girl also make foundation/powder hybrids.)
If you prefer a liquid foundation, McGrath suggests placing a small amount of an oil-free kind (she likes Laura Mercier Classique) on a damp sponge and pressing it lightly all over the face until it’s well blended. Then dip a barely moist sponge into loose powder and lightly pat all over the face.
2. CONTOURED CHEEKS
It sounds like “Saturday Night fever,” redux — cheeks contoured with tawny, bronze colors — but you’ll be surprised at how natural it can look when properly applied. McGrath advises taking a bronze stick (a favorite is Bobbi Brown’s ) and dotting it on just under the cheekbones. Using a sponge, blend it up onto the cheekbones.
Trish McEvoy also dabs bronzer on the bridge of the nose and around the hairline and blends it in with her finger. Both McEvoy and McGrath stress that the key to avoiding “cheek stripes” is thorough blending.
Next, you’ll want to add a dapple of color to the cheek. McGrath likes rosy shades like Clinique Sunny Blush, Laura Mercier Classique Wild Bouquet Cheek-Colour and Bobbi Brown Essentials Sand Pink Blush. Another option: a violet hue, such as Clinique’s creamy Sheer Plum Cheek Base.
A tip: Always apply creamy products such as bronzers and cream blushers before powder; apply “dry” products such as powder blush and eye shadow after powder.
3. EYES WITH EMPHASIS
Although not as theatrical as the smoky eyes of last year, eyes are still in the spotlight, often highlighted with metallic colors. The trick to making the look soft and natural is using the strongest colors to line the eyes.
Start by priming the eye with a light-colored shadow such as cream or beige. Matte shadows (such as Trish McEvoy Sand or Laura Mercier Buttercream) work well, but you may also want to try a shimmery light gold (such as Trish McEvoy Glaze 128) or silver (Yves Saint Laurent Eye Shadow Powder Duo 99).
To line the eye, you’ll need two colors — a dark matte shadow and a soft metallic. McGrath recommends Laura Mercier Gold River and Max Factor Eye Designer Shadow Liner in Gold Dust.
Start by dipping a thin liner brush into the dark matte shadow and lining the entire eye. Next, take a smudging brush (a tiny brush with a Q-Tip-size head), dip it in the metallic color and brush it on just outside your first line. Apply the same metallic color to the crease to add definition.
For a bolder approach, substitute purple shadow options such as Lancome’s Les Violettes, Revlon’s shimmery Violet X-Treme and Prescriptives’ Heather.
Finish with two coats of black mascara (only the lightest blonds should use brown).
4. LIPS WITH SHEEN
Choices are soft and bold, ranging from deep plums and berries to mauves, peaches and browns. McGrath recommends Clinique lip gloss in Honey Pot or Raspberry Jam, Trish McEvoy Lip Essentials 7 and 9 and BeneFit lip gloss in Incognito, Birthday Suit or Espionage. Lavender choices include Maybelline’s Rogue Vogue, Revlon’s Virtual Violet and Clinique’s Crystal Violet.
To apply, start by lining lips with a pencil in a shade that matches your natural lip color (McGrath recommends The Body Shop Colourings Beech Lip Liner). Dip a lip brush in the gloss/lipstick and apply. Use the brush to blend liner and gloss/lipstick so there’s no line of demarcation.
Facing up to a new hue
Whether you choose violet shades for your eyes, lips or cheeks, thorough blending is essential, says makeup artist Darcy McGrath.
Defined eyes and softly contoured cheeks are important components of the season’s look.
Grape expectations
Not so certain that lavender makeup is the best option for you? Get your purple fix via accessories in shades ranging from rich wine to icy violet.
Berry flattering
Velvet wine belt, $88; from Henri Bendel. Lavender Hush Puppy loafers, $70; from Bloomingdale’s.
Resources
Trish McEvoy makeup is available at Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and Henri Bendel. For a store near you call 800-431-4306. Laura Mercier Classique cosmetics are available at Neiman Marcus and Henri Bendel. Call 888-637-2437 for a location near you. BeneFit cosmetics are available at Henri Bendel or via mail order by calling 800-781-2336.
![An extra-alarm fire destroyed a home and damaged two others on the near West side Wednesday night, though fire officials said no one was injured in the blaze. The fire broke out around 8:30 p.m. on the 1300 block of West 16th Street in the Pilsen neighborhood, according to a social media update from the Chicago Fire Department. Officials quickly upgraded the blaze to a 2-11 fire. Neighbors who clustered around the scene Wednesday night said the home had been under construction and appeared to be vacant. Although the fire was declared struck out at 9:30 p.m. in a social […]](https://www.chicagotribune.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/ctc-l-structure-fire-041724-06.jpg?w=525 "An extra-alarm fire destroyed a home and damaged two others on the near West side Wednesday night, though fire officials said no one was injured in the blaze. The fire broke out around 8:30 p.m. on the 1300 block of West 16th Street in the Pilsen neighborhood, according to a social media update from the Chicago Fire Department. Officials quickly upgraded the blaze to a 2-11 fire. Neighbors who clustered around the scene Wednesday night said the home had been under construction and appeared to be vacant. Although the fire was declared struck out at 9:30 p.m. in a social […]")
